How to Sew Heavy Fabrics: Best Tools, Tips, and Techniques
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Time to read 5 min
Table of Contents
How We Sew Heavy Fabrics Like The Pros
Sewing heavy fabrics doesn’t have to be intimidating. With the right tools and a little know-how, projects like hemming jeans, making tote bags, or tackling upholstery can go from frustrating to fun. We work with thick materials all the time at Quality Sewing & Vacuum, and we’re sharing what we’ve learned so you can get great results at home.
Let’s walk through the basics of working with heavy fabrics—from picking your thread and needles to adjusting your machine for smooth, strong seams.
Why Thick Fabrics Need A Different Approach
If you’ve ever tried sewing multiple layers of denim or canvas, you already know it’s not the same as piecing together quilting cotton. Sewing heavy fabric takes a little more effort to feed through the machine, and without the right setup, you might deal with skipped stitches, broken needles, or seams that just don’t hold up.
Here are a few common heavy-duty projects we see folks working on:
• Multi-layer tote bags with interfacing and stabilizers
• Reinforced seams on denim jeans
• ByAnnie bags with thick foam
• Upholstery projects and pillow covers
You don’t need fancy tools to get started, but you do need to tweak your setup a bit.
Most machines can handle thicker fabrics with a few simple adjustments. But if you’re regularly sewing through multiple layers, a heavy-duty machine can make a huge difference. We really love the Bernette 08 Workhorse. It’s a mechanical straight-stitch machine with serious power—1,600 stitches per minute and built to handle tough jobs.
It doesn’t hesitate when we feed in thick seams or quilted layers, and the results are smooth and consistent. If you’re doing a lot of leather, canvas, or webbing, this is a machine worth considering.
Thread That Holds Up to the Job
If you want your seams to last, you need to use the right thread for your project.
Here’s what we recommend:
• Polyester all-purpose thread – Good for general sewing and home décor
• Outdoor thread (poly or nylon) – UV-resistant and weatherproof
• Bonded nylon – Super strong, great for bags, straps, and upholstery
• Upholstery thread – Thick and durable for stress-heavy seams
You want to use a sturdy thread for your project. Make sure the thread is designed for use as hand-sewing threads are too thick and don't flow smoothly through the tension system. You can learn about the types of thread and their uses here.
The Right Needle Makes All the Difference
When you’re sewing heavy fabric, your needle needs to be strong enough to pierce through multiple layers without bending or breaking.
We reach for:
• Denim needles (90/14–110/18) – Our go-to for canvas, jeans, and layers
• Topstitch needles – Designed with a deeper groove to protect thicker threads
• Leather needles – These cut through leather rather than puncture it, giving a cleaner finish
As a rule of thumb, the higher the number, the thicker the needle. A 100/16 or 110/18 will serve you well for those bulkier materials. Learn more about the various types of sewing needles here.
Stitch Settings We Swear By
Short stitches on heavy fabric can cause bunching—or even rip through the layers. That’s why we always adjust our stitch length based on fabric thickness. A longer stitch helps everything feed smoothly and prevents tearing, especially when working with upholstery, webbing, or thick seams.
• 2.5 mm – Light fabrics
• 3.0–3.5 mm – Tote bags and layered projects
• 4.0–4.5 mm – Upholstery, straps, or webbing
A longer stitch helps keep things moving smoothly and avoids perforating the fabric like a paper tear.
Techniques That Make Heavy Fabric Easier to Sew
Here are a few simple adjustments that have made a big difference for us:
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1. Prevent shifting
We use clips instead of pins—especially the Quilter’s Select Fabric Clips. They hold tight without distorting the fabric.
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2. Walking foot = game changer
If your fabric layers are slipping or puckering, a walking foot helps feed everything evenly. It’s especially helpful for quilting or upholstery work.
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3. Reinforce straps and stress points
When we attach handles or straps, we always stitch a square with an X through the middle. It adds strength where it matters most. For straps made of webbing, a quick pass with a lighter seals the ends and keeps them from fraying.
Let's Talk Topstitching
Topstitching isn’t just decorative—it strengthens your seams and gives your project a clean finish. We bump our stitch length to around 3.5 mm or even 4.5 mm and use heavier thread for contrast.
If the stitches start skipping, we check the tension, change the needle, or even double up the thread in the same needle for a bold look. It takes a little experimentation, but the results are worth it.
Final Thoughts: You've Got This!
Heavy fabric might feel intimidating at first, but with the right needle, thread, and a few easy tweaks, you’ll be sewing like a pro in no time.
Here’s what we always keep in mind:
• Use strong thread like bonded nylon or upholstery weight
• Pick the right needle size—at least 100/16 for most projects
• Adjust stitch length to 3.0 mm or higher
• Clip your layers instead of pinning
• Reinforce stress points with an X stitch for long-lasting durability
If you’re ready to gear up, we’ve got everything you need at Quality Sewing & Vacuum—from heavy-duty threads and machine needles to walking feet and the Bernette 08 Workhorse.
If you ever need help, we’re just a call or visit away - Call 1(800) 687-5175 to chat with one of our sewing experts.
Happy Sewing! - Reva
What thread works best for denim or canvas?
We usually reach for bonded nylon, outdoor thread, or upholstery thread—something built to last. Regular polyester thread is fine for lighter layers, but it doesn’t always hold up on those tougher seams.
What stitch length should I use on heavy fabrics?
We go with a longer stitch—usually somewhere between 3.0 mm and 4.5 mm. Shorter stitches can actually weaken your seams because they perforate the fabric too much.
How do I sew leather without damaging it?
We use a leather needle and lengthen my stitch to avoid punching too many holes. Skip the backstitch and tie off threads or reinforce with extra stitches to finish cleanly.
Can I use decorative thread on heavy fabrics?
Absolutely! We love using GlaMore 12-weight or King Tutt thread for topstitching. And to make it really pop, thread the needle with two strands at once.
